by Duke Egbert

“Spring is here, oh spring is here,
Life is skittles and life is beer,
I think the loveliest time of the year is the spring, I do! Don’t you?
…course you do.”
        --“Poisoning Pigeons In The Park”, Tom Lehrer

 

    I wish to state, first off, that I in no way advocate the random elimination of wildlife.  But let’s face it; Spring is here in her best new gown, and given that it seems sometimes spring and autumn in Texas last about three hours, let us seize the day and talk about beers for Spring – which, as far as I’m concerned, means beers for food. After all, many of us are dusting off the charcoal grill or haunting the local farmers’ markets for spring produce – not to mention the Spring holidays and family meals.  And really, I think we can do better than skittles to match our beer, don’t you?

    When I’m asked what brewmasters I respect, my usual first response is Garrett Oliver of the Brooklyn Brewery. His enthusiasm for beer paired with food is palpable, and his book The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering The Joy Of Real Beer With Real Food  is a must-read for the beer aficionado. One of his favorite choices to pair with almost anything is Saison Dupont from Belgium’s Brasserie Dupont. Saisons were traditionally brewed in the autumn and winter to refresh farm workers in the summer, but as far as Oliver – and myself, though I’m not worthy to be mentioned in the same breath – is concerned, this is a drink anytime, drink anywhere. The bitter hop finish is a perfect counterpoint to grilled food – try it with chicken rubbed with lemon and rosemary or shrimp skewers.  Saison had almost died out as a style as recent as twenty years ago, but the craft beer revolution has brought it new life.

    Spring in Texas means a lot of new growth. Driving to work down 620, it seems that the bluebonnets and Indian paintbrushes have decided to go for broke this year, and they are everywhere. I love wildflowers in Spring – but I also love asparagus. You can steam it, you can microwave it, or – my personal favorite – you can roast it with a little pesto and Parmigiano Reggiano. While you’re doing that, open up a Long Strange Triple from Boulevard Brewing’s Smokestack series. Long Strange is the best of the American tripel ales – the fruit, bread, and citrus notes in it really makes asparagus and sharp cheese sing. Once you’ve done that, invite me over.

    Finally, depending on your cultural and religious background it’s quite likely you will either be consuming baked ham or roast lamb sometime this month. I love ‘em both – then again, given my photo above, it’s hard to imagine there are foods I don’t love. (For the record – olives, green bell peppers, cooked whole tomato, mussels, water chestnuts, baby corn, and kidneys.)

    Pairing beer with both of those spring staples is easy. For the ham, I would recommend a helles bock (for the definition, check out this month’s BVB, below). I like Hofbrau Munchen Maibock. This classic German beer has the nuttiness and spiciness to counter the smoked saltiness of the ham. For lamb, I would recommend a classic Scotch ale like Belhaven Scottish Ale. Belhaven is, for my money, one of the most reliably good producers of ale around, and their flagship product has earthy notes that match up well with the gaminess of the lamb.

    Until next month, keep your head up, your lace delicate, your malt toasty, and your hops snappy.

THIS MONTH’S BEER VOCABULARY BUILDER (BVB):

    Helles Bock (also known as Heller Bock): “Helles Bock or Heller Bock Maibock (literally: light Bock) is essentially a synonym for Maibock, the Bavarians' strong, golden lager favored during the brief transition transition between the long Bavarian winters along the northern edge of the Alps and the equally long, hot summers. In spite of its name, this brew is not light in body or strength, just in color.” (Definition courtesy of the German Beer Institute, http://www.germanbeerinstitute.com).

    Duke’s take: This will get your blood moving in spring. It’s heavy enough and alcoholic enough that it may not be a good summer drink, but from March to May it’s one of my favorites.